“Du bist verrückt mein Kind, du musst nach Berlin. Wo die Verrückten sind, da gehörst du hin.”

– Franz von Suppè, Fatinitza

Earlier this month I found myself in a city I had been two a couple times before. This particular city is not one that I had liked previously, but I was excited to give it another go. Without any further intended obfuscation, I was in the capital of Germany: Berlin. My experience there has left me with many thoughts and observations that I am not sure how to place. I often come up with a storyline or something that I have learned from an experience. This time I do not have anything so clean, but it was a memorable enough experience that I figured it worth sharing.

In my time on this earth so far, I have had the great privilege to visit a number of cities in Europe. In particular, I have been to a number of capitals like Vienna, Rome, and Amsterdam. Each of these three cities looks and feels old. When you walk by a building that has a plaque explaining something from the thirteenth century, you don’t question it. When Roman ruins are showcased in glass under a museum or train station, it feels like part and parcel of the city’s history. Unfortunately, and I must say unfortunately, Berlin does not feel like this at all. I can imagine that pre-1940 Berlin was probably similar, but given its history it has a vibe that is unlike anywhere else. Because of the Cold War, Berlin’s history as being the city where east meets west is still very prominent in the minds of people across the West to this day. However, I think that the idea of there being two Berlins is not valid anymore, rather there are three. Three distinct vibes to Berlin that all variant their own discussion.

Slight disclaimer, I am fully aware that Berlin has been a united city and the capital of Germany for over thirty years, meaning that there is technically no west or east anymore, just Berlin. That being said, for the sake of explaining my experience with this city, I will be referring to these outdated terms regardless.

To many in America, West Berlin will of course be the most familiar and known part of the city. After the defeat of Germany in 1945, Berlin was occupied by the Americans, British, and French. The land that they controlled ended up becoming West Germany, and importantly for us, West Berlin.

Berlin was historically a very polycentric city, meaning that different mini city centers or squares served as the meeting points and hubs for the city. This was true long before the Second World War. Unlike most European cities which have a distinct core that get branched out from, Berlin was always a city with many hubs. For West Berlin, its main hub would have to be the Kurfürstendamm, a famous street that runs through the city, with the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church being the focal point. This street, often shortened to ‘Ku’damm’ for those in the know (and for insufferable tourists) is much like any other shopping street in western Germany. There are a lot of luxury brands, fancy restaurants, and the latest in European fashion trends. For my money, it reminded me of Munich and Frankfurt, especially Frankfurt. It felt modern on the surface, and there was a lot of money in the air, but one could tell that their architectural cues came from mid-century modernism, which is to say ugly.

West Berlin is more than just one street. It also holds the Flughafen Tempelhof, which unlike its name suggests, is no longer an airport. It is not just a historic site with a large airfield that is being used as a park/green space. The former airport was crucial to the Berlin Airlift. If you don’t know what that is, ask your grandpa, I guarantee you he knows. The areas around Tempelhof are a touch more affordable, not that anything is affordable anywhere anymore, and more trendy. One could tell that all the cool kids liked to hangout at the hipster asian fusion restaurants and bars near this area.

One can still tell that West Berlin was a politically isolated island in the middle of eastern Germany. It felt a lot more similar in a lot of ways to western cities than even to its other half. On the plus side, that made it an easy destination. Not too many surprises, and still a lot of history to enjoy.

On the communist side of the wall lies East Berlin, the beating heart of the ehemalige DDR, former East Germany. Because Berlin was flattened beyond belief during the war, it all had to be rebuilt. The west in a modern western style, and the east in the latest and greatest that communism could offer. Which unfortunately meant a lot of commie blocks, which are basically super cheap concrete towels built from prefabricated panels. They are even uglier than you can imagine. Some streets, like the Karl-Marx-Allee were built in a very grand Stalinist style, but because the reds were perpetually broke, they only ever completed a short section of it in this grand style.

The heart of the east would be Alexanderplatz, this is where Berlin’s famous TV tower stands. Fun fact, when the sun shines on the TV tower, it looks like a cross. Colloquially known as the ‘Pope’s Revenge’. God has a great sense of humor. At any rate, the Alexanderplatz was always an important hub for Berlin, but was rebuilt in the most Soviet of Soviet styles after the war. Walking from the Marx-Engels-Forum to the Alexanderplatz, it felt very like walking through a science fiction movie set. It really is so unique and angular that it feels out of this world. It doesn’t help that it feels ages away from the ‘Ku’damm’ just a few miles away.

I also had an experience that I am unsure on how to explain. As I was walking to the square, I walked past a couple groups of youths, to put it charitably. Basically, groups of young men speaking some incomprehensible language from the Middle East. One particular group was enjoying themselves by shouting obscenely loud, smoking various substances profusely, and constantly shoving each other and then laughing about it. I can’t say I understand this form of leisure, and it must be said that families and groups of women were nowhere in sight. These types of groups enjoying themselves without restraint is a very common sight in modern and advanced twenty-first century Europe. To me, it just felt especially weird given the dystopian and Soviet architecture framing this scene. I am not sure how to commnet, or even on what I should comment. I just know it was an experience I would rather not have again.

Closer to where I was staying I had the pleasure of going to a traditional East Berlin hole in the wall, and I enjoyed every second of it. They served cheap beer, and the only other clientele were old men and women playing cards. I had a lovely dish and cheap beer and while the restaurant had seen better days, you could tell that this was still a place that locals loved. Far away from the glitz and glamor of touristy Berlin, this is where the real Berliners were.

As stated previously, Berlin was divided in two and that is fairly easy to notice. If you were dropped down into one part of the city or another, I guarantee that you would be able to figure out in which section you were in fairly quickly. That is, except for one part of the city, that is the very center. Most of the districts in Berlin follow similar borders to how they were previously, except of course the Mitte. This district is truly the core of the city, from both the east and the west.

In this part of the city, it feels different, very different to the former west and the former east. Here, for my money, it feels a lot like Washington D.C. It is more of a monument than a city. Many historical buildings in this part of the city were either renovated, or rebuilt entirely. Its highlights include the Reichstag building, Brandenburg Gate, Potsdamer Platz, and more. The buildings here tend to fall into two categories, either very old and restored, or turn of the millennium modernism. The Potsdamer Platz, like Alexanderplatz, was a hub of connectivity and activity. Nowadays it feels very corporate, with giant glass facades framing the area. It could be in Berlin, but it could also be Chicago or London. Local character the damned.

The Mitte, or city center, felt somewhat soulless. There were many impressive buildings and the recently rebuilt Berliner Schloss, for example, is a masterpiece. However, as pretty as it all was, it still felt like it was either for civil servants, tourists, or businessmen. Real Berliners aren’t the people hanging around the middle of the city. I went on a cycling tour of the city, and my suspicions were confirmed. Our tour guide was a real true blue Berliner. He had said that his family had been living in Berlin for generations. At any rate, he was no fan of Potsdamer Platz either. He also mentioned the fact that nearly as many people who have moved to Berlin since the reunification have left the city. Basically, the city is being built for a new class of international cosmopolitans and urbanites. The average resident is being left behind.

This whole discussion relates itself to gentrification. And to be honest, this is a conversation that I struggle with. As an outsider, I can’t say that I am ever against gentrification. It often brings trendy new shops and cafés. Crime goes down, instagramability goes up. Certainly, when I hear that somewhere near me is being developed and in effect gentrified, I often rejoice. It is hard to object to a place being nicer, however that often comes at the expense of the locals who then get priced out.

In the case of Berlin, it seems that a completely new city has been built since reunification. The old east and west divide is slowly fading as all of those who lived it are either dying or having to move out because everything is growing too expensive. A new capital is being created for Germany, but it is happening while the old Berliner is being pushed away. Berlin was once known for being alternative and poor, but sexy. Now Berlin, especially the Mitte, is just becoming another line on a spreadsheet. It is becoming a faceless and nameless city for the jetsetting elite and the Davos crowd.

I am not sure I know the answer of what they should do. Given the occupation of Germany and the trauma that Germans have had to endure, I am in no place to judge. That being said, what I can do is strongly recommend visiting Berlin. It is a city unlike any other. Whereas history in the aforementioned Vienna and Rome can be visibly seen, here the history is more like a specter. You can learn about it, hear of it, and even feel it, but it often remains invisible. The history here is almost ethereal and difficult to grasp.

Berlin is like the drink Club Mate. A very popular caffeinated German beverage based on mate tea. When you first drink Club Mate, you’re going to hate it. It tastes very unique. However, if you are patient and willing to have your mind changed, you’ll find that you’ll slowly grow to truly love the drink. As I said, I didn’t love Berlin the first couple times I visited, but this last trip really impressed me, and I enjoyed every minute of it. Berlin is an acquired taste, and one that may not be the same in fifty years time, so enjoy it while it lasts.

“He hath made every thing beautiful in his time: also he hath set the world in their heart, so that no man can find out the work that God maketh from the beginning to the end.” – Ecclesiastes 3:11 (KJV)